The Apollo, Potts Point
It sits humbly on the corner of Crick Avenue, a stone's throw from it's latest neighbours Paper Bird and Lot One. Open now for more than five years, seeing a jam-packed restaurant nearly ever single night of the week shows evidence that the quality and skills from the team at the Apollo is truly prized by locals.
There's a moderate buzz on Saturday afternoon. Diners already dotted around Macleay are sinking into to their second or third wine, easing in to a Saturday night supper. Fellow guests pour in, and I'm a spectator from our shaky metal table outside. It's the last few weeks of daylight savings, and I get to enjoy the final warm rays setting during the hour.
Well before the food, there's alot to digest. We take our time with the menu and this could be why we feel less attended to. We start with a round of the Apollo spritz and enjoy the surprise of forgotten finger lime. It's zesty and overall, light tangy and refreshing. We wade through the menu, and land on some heavyweights. I find irony in our waitress suggesting some side salads to lift our options at a restaurant serving predominantly greek food.
Stay in Sydney long enough, and you'll know that the Saganaki at the Apollo is seemingly famed - and frankly, I've had nothing quite like it. It's an oozy slab of greek sheep's-milk cheese that comes sizzling in the pan. It's coated in a shallow, lava-like pool of honey, sprinkled with dry oregano. The lemon is intense, and although it balances all the flavours, it's not a combination I understand the appeal of - this salt-fiend's heart remains with halloumi.
The sardines impress with size, and lay as elegantly as possible for wood-fired whole fish that some would deem more appropriate for their pets only. The chilli adds only a light layer to the dish's profile, as the sardines alone are quite intense in their natural flavour. The lightly pickled onions really make the dish and soften the impact, but I consider the onions scant considering how salty these sardines actually are.
Kritharaki pasta arrives, and with a menu in need of more commas, we're delightfully surprised that it's a gorgeous homestyle pasta bake with risoni and the odd strand of braised oxtail. It's heavily buttered, and in turn delicious. Superb crunch comes from a top layer of crispy crumb and creamy, fine skordalia, and despite the lamb that we enjoy soon after, the pasta bake becomes this table's favourite.
The greek style BBQ Chicken arrives quartered. It's lightly coated in a turmeric seasoning mix with a splash of herbs and served on hummus that's heavy with creamy tahini. The lamb is served in a similar fashion, and simply falls off the bone. Its a technical delight, and the tzatziki is a stellar example of what this often-tart accompaniment should really be. There's lemon but you really won't want to add it.
We end up happy with the advice from waitstaff, despite our meaty intentions. The iceberg lettuce comes with nothing other than shaved sheep's milk cheese. Overall, it's a fresh and creamy dish, with slightly less weight than everything else landing on our table. After being rushed through our dishes, we leave abruptly with mixed tastes and assume we simply don't look like locals.
Mon - Thur 18:00 - 22:00
Fri - Sun Noon - 23:30